Leader: Wha’s like us… Judith Fish

THERE has been plenty of culinary chatter recently about how Scotland has raised its game in the kitchen and has really started to put itself on the global map for foodie tourism.

Last week, this was underlined when the number of Michelin-starred restaurants north of the Border reached 15. But it could be argued that it is easier to rise to the highest standards near Scotland’s big cities and luxury hotels. Where the real fight for quality goes on is out in the rural wilds where attracting top-class staff and the best supplies of food is a greater logistical problem.

So chef’s hats off to the Applecross Inn in Wester Ross, after being crowned Scottish Pub of the Year. The Applecross, which lies at the end of a twisting single track road, is owned by Judith Fish who has been slaving away since 1989 to make the Inn more than just a watering hole. She tempted local lad and chef Robbie MacRae back from Michelin-starred kitchens and last week reaped the rewards. She put the success down to teamwork, but it was Judith who had the vision.